ANDINA PANADERIA AND PICANTERIAThu 05 2018 | Adaya
Peruvian chef Martin Morales has opened London’s first Peruvian bakery, Andina Panaderia alongside a new restaurant, Andina Picanteria in Notting Hill.
This is Martin’s third opening, and it’s sure to become one of the best places to eat in West London.
The restaurant and bakery are located side by side on Westbourne Grove and the inspiration behind both openings was the female Andean chefs that Martin has worked with since opening Ceviche. Both are beautiful spaces, with eucalyptus wood tables, brightly coloured cushions and oiled oak shelves displaying pieces from London potters.
The bakery, led by pastry chef Ana Velasquez, specialises in slow ferment baking. All sorts of traditional Peruvian pastries are available alongside breads, brunch-style dishes and lunchtime salads. Traditional Andean breads include black mint and potato sourdough, chancay bread — which is an enriched dough bread similar to challah — and the pan frances, a type of light, crusty roll.
There are also traditional cakes and sweets, including Pastel de Lúcuma, which is an Andean version of the famous Portuguese custard tart, and chica morada muffin, a blue corn muffin.
In the restaurant, head chef Luca Depalo has designed a menu that pays homage to the family-run, roadside restaurants found in the eleven regions of the Peruvian Andes. Dishes include an ancient version of ceviche called sivinche, which is made with yellowfin tuna, trout roe and popped kiwicha (an Amaranth plant). Also intriguing is the purple corn tamal with choclo corn succotash (a variety with large niblets) and sweet kale pesto.
Larger dishes include braised abobo pork leg and 80-day aged sirloin with red pepper and Amarillo chilli escabeche.
Cocktails begin with the Peruvian classic — the Pisco sour, of course, and move on to other Pisco-based cocktails like the La Nueva Palomino made with lychee-infused Pisco, London Dry gin, ginger and lemongrass cordial, guanabana (a fruit) and elderberry juice.
A short beer selection is also available including Peruvian brand Cusqueña and their own brew, made in collaboration with Hammerton Brewery. The wine list is — if we’re honest — unremarkable.
On the soft side of things, there’s an interesting list of sodas, in flavours like passion fruit and mango, and goldenberry shrub.
Small plates start at £5, larger plates at £12. Sharing dishes like that adobo pork are £40–60-ish. A Pisco sour is £8.
In a Nutshell:
We love what Martin Morales has done for Peruvian food in London so it’s great to see him add another site to his clutch of restaurants. The bakery is particularly exciting: it’s time to get acquainted with Peruvian pastries.