London’s experimental new ice-creams and sorbetsFri 06 2017 | admin
It is an edible optical illusion. The latest ruse from Dominique Ansel looks like a kiwi fruit, it’s fuzzy on the outside and tangy sharp within. But this is no virtuous fruit, it’s hedonism in the form of chocolate and ice cream — what more would you expect from the creator of the Cronut and winner of the World’s Best Pastry Chef 2017?
In a month of record temperatures, ice cream has been an essential part of diets. Iced coffee’s popularity is waning because it takes too long to make — you will be the most hated person in the café as a queue forms behind you. Instead, London is making advances with iced cream.
As well as the kiwi fruit there’s black ice cream and frozen eclairs. Ansel describes his dessert as “a sorbet for summer”.
“Kiwi has a unique taste and texture — a sweet, slightly tart and juicy centre, that works really well as a cold, refreshing sorbet,” says Ansel. “I recreated that fuzzy skin with a layer of milk chocolate so that it’s actually edible, and rather than actual kiwi seeds we use poppy seeds, which adds a little extra bite.”
Meanwhile, the éclair-specialists at the Melba coffee shop on the Strand have concluded that ice cream is the ideal way to improve the French classic. Savoy executive chef Ludwig Hely is letting customers choose from a range of mouth-watering ice cream flavours and toppings to personalise their Icéclairs, which are (as the name suggests) an ice cream and éclair mash-up.
When the redesigned Melba reopens on Monday, customers can choose from popping candy, cookie dough and candyfloss toppings (along with more “grown-up” options such as caramelised hazelnuts and chocolate pearls) to lash over scoops of dark chocolate, Sicilian pistachio and wild berry ice cream.
Similarly eye-catching is Jude’s pitch-black coconut ice cream, flavoured with coconut ash. This emo sounding ingredient creates an intense coconut flavour but the only way to know for sure is to head to the Pear Tree Café in Battersea to try it yourself. It’s bound to make you stand out from the next person with a 99.
It’s possible to have a perfectly varied diet of different ice creams. Summer has never been so cool.
Via Evening Standard